Friday evening in Polokwane Reserve didn't disappoint. Within the first half hour of setting off we were treated to a family of rhino, some zebra, sable, water buck & impala. Not to mention a SPECTACULAR sunset that saw me almost dropping to my knees and weeping. This was the Africa I'd been waiting since I was 4 years old to see.
On Saturday morning we set off hideously early (no weekend sleep in!) to visit the tribal homeland of the Moletjie in the Northern most reaches of Limpopo. An untouched corner of the province that was a great insight into the real lives of Africans. We were shown around by Charles - who'd trained as both teacher & priest before answering the call to become the clan's "Sangoma" (aka healer or witch doctor) who allowed us to sit in on a traditional 'throwing of the bones' session. I was up for some insider information on a cure for diabetes but unfortunately it wasn't forthcoming. However we did find out that our French colleague Isabelle will be getting married, so I'm looking forward to visiting Paris for the wedding!
Charles the Sangoma
The bride to be at the front, looking somewhat nervous.......
We then headed to Zulani lodge, nestled between the Blouberg & Soutpanberg mountains. A truly beautiful eco-lodge run by Elizabeth & Gordon Brace. Now this couple has truly lived an adventurous life. They've been shipwrecked in the Indian Ocean to be rescued by an airforce carrier by the British Army, have hunted all over the world and are now running Zulani - a beautifully simple permanent campsite on their game reserve.
Now gentle reader this is where I could wax lyrical and talk about experiencing what can only be termed a life changing moment. But I'm not going to bore you with the details. Suffice to say that I will now die a fulfulled and happy woman. I experienced Giraffe at sunset and a steady stream of truly 'Out of Africa' moments - all I needed was the muslin and Robert Redford. I'll let the photos speak for themselves.......
Bed for the night
After a traditional Brai (meat from one end of the table to another - you gotta be happy with that), it was a night under the stars soaking up the sounds of Africa at night. One of these days I'll work out the settings on my camera so I can take better night shots.........
Today we headed to the Makabeng region of Blouberg. Now this place just rocked my world - quite literally. A very arid area filled with red dust and the most spectacular sandstone rock formations, which are home to some early cave art dating back nearly 4000 years. Elizabeth & Gordon joined us, along with Eunice our guide, who lives at the base of the mountain. He lives so basically, with no running water or electricity yet this guy has 2 natural sciences degrees under his belt and is in his final year of an honours in archeology. He's had to study off and on as funds would allow and is extremely passionate and dedicated about sharing the rradition San art of his ancestors with university teams (and the odd lucky group such as ourselves). This region is well off the tourist track and remains relatively untouched. It was fantastic sharing it with such a knowledgable guide, as well as Gordon & Elizabeth who are equally passionate about the importance of this region. You've probably already worked out that I'm not much of a photographer, so I don't know that my photos will do it justice, but it's a part of the world well worth seeing.
Sandstone outcrop overlooking the Gorge we were heading to
The Gorge on the way to the cave.....
Charles in lecturer mode......
A nice spot for lunch.
How's the serenity?????
The day finished with a race for home against the local transportation. We won, but let me tell you it was close!
And on a final note gentle reader, those that know me well will realise that it is indeed testimony to my complete and utter enjoyment of the weekend that I did not even notice the 3 inch layer of red dust that covered me from head to foot, the sunburn on the back of my neck or the bush toilets - not to mention the small mountaub if red dust that came out of my socks when I got home!
It's back to work tomorrow, with a very busy week of data collation and initial recommendations, followed by a weekend in the Kruger.
A girl could get to like it here..........
