Thursday, November 11, 2010

Interlude with the King of the Jungle......

Ah, it's been a busy time since the last post gentle reader.  Finalising our client work & presentations, trying to get my BGLs to play nice, losing handbags on dirt roads (but more on that another time), the odd round of golf and - some close encounters of the lion kind!


Yes gentle reader, another dream come true.  I'm ticking them off at a rapid rate of knots this trip and of course I just had to share..........

We were lucky enough to get taken by our clients to the Protea Ranch here in Polokwane, where we were able to spend time playing with lion cubs and gazing at their mummies & daddies with just a thin wire fence standing between you and potentially becoming the main course.  And can I tell you?  These beautiful beasts are absolutely awe-inspiring up close.  Strong, beautiful and lethal - all the time looking like the laziest moggy sitting in the back yard.

These lions are part of a breeding and training program run by the Ranch.  All of the lions are trained and are used in films etc.  Their trainers have been working with some of them for well over 15 years.  The oldest lion is now close to 30 and is spending his retirement just sitting in the sunshine at the Ranch, watching the world go by.  Not a bad life at all really.


He doesn't look a day over 29.......  Big Jack is King of the Ranch

But the highlight was being able to play with the cubs.  At just 6 weeks old, these guys were just sooooo adorable I wanted to eat them with a spoon!  I realised every 'Born Free' fantasy I've had since I first met Elsa the lion through the gift of film.  It was fabulous being allowed to just be in the pen with them, letting them play with me, chew my hair and fingers and generally behave like 6 week olds.  It was just magical.

This little guy and I became fast friends.

I'm hoping customs won't have a problem with him........

But how could they argue with a face like that?????






But of course, the grown up versions are equally magnificent and it was really wonderful getting to see first hand how they reacted to their trainers.

Oh, it's just you....... 


Could we hurry this up?  I'm very tired...... 


In fact, I think I'll just lie down.  Just go on without me........ 


I think I'm going to sneeze.......

The day was wrapped up by a wonderful Brai (standard BBQ to all us Aussies) at sunset.  The perfect end to a truly memorable experience.

Gotta run, I have to feed the cub...... 





Wednesday, November 3, 2010

But it ain't all beer & skittles folks

Now gentle reader (or bloody tough reader as the case may be KD), I know I've been waxing lyrical about the majesty of Africa and the wonderful time I'm having.  But I wanted to highlight that there's been some hard work behind the scenes and a lot of time spent trying to help out the more disadvantaged sections of this wonderful country.  There is a HUGE gap between the average middle class person and the disadvantaged, and unfortunately the latter forms the majority of the population here in Limpopo Province.

On Friday afternoon a small group of the South Africa 7 team spent some time at a local orphanage here in Polokwane.  The Samritan Home is partly govt funded and looks after abandoned children up to the age of 18.  These kids are the victims of AIDS, abuse and abandoment and some are very ill with full-blown AIDS, have HIV, are mentally disabled or both in some cases.  The govt takes care of basic schooling and some accommodation, but unfortunately it does not pay for the prescription drugs these kids need, nor the specialist care & education some require.  The home relies on volunteers & donations as the major source of income.

These children have been left to fend for themselves and do not know what it is to have a safe home and the love of a family.  We thought long & hard about what we wanted to achieve with The Samirtan and decided in the first instance that we should simply use this as an opportunity to give these children some attention and let them feel like a carefree kid for at least one afternoon. 

We took along with us some afternoon tea packed with good old fashioned junk food - the stuff kids love.  On a more practical note we also took some school supplies, coloured pencils, a globe, some soccer balls and some clothes.  I've also been helping them put together content for a website which they can use to source volunteers and raise funds.

When we first showed up the children were very shy and withdrawn, but it didn't take long for them to warm up - expect it was the sugar kicking in as they don't get treats very often.  It turned out to be an afternoon of beaming smiles, lots of giggles and VERY sticky fingers........ (Note:  there is a maximum of 4 lollipops that can be stuffed into a small child's mouth at any given moment......)

Funnily enough I believe it was us IBMers who got the most out of interacting with these kids.  It was a lesson in keeping a perspective on the lives we are lucky enough to lead back home and the importance of never taking anything for granted. It also really highlighted the importance of programs such as the IBM Corporate Services Corps and the opportunities it offers local communities in struggling economies.

The photos are worth a thousand of my words.........

These little girls are 6 & 5 respectively.  They were abandoned and have HIV 

With the live-in managers of the Samritan - who the kids call Ma & Pa

Playing with the new soccer ball 


 They were all fascinated by the blonde hair - particularly the little girls

Once they warmed to you they hung on like limpets!  I was surprised at how instantly warm & affectionate these kids were.

The bedrooms are small and sleep about 8 - so the facilities are very basic.


Finding Australia on the Globe we donated.....  They ALL knew where it was 

This little guy (Mtabe) was infected by his mother and abandoned when he was just 2.  He now has full-blown AIDS and is hearing-impaired.  He wanted one of the Koalas I'd brought along and wanted me to wear his crown.


Rudi (one of the IBMers) playing for the kids.  They had beautiful voices and all LOVE singing so.  The little boy in yellow was facinated by the blonde hair on Rudi's arm.

Monday, November 1, 2010

The love affair continues.......

Well gentle reader, I may not have been swathed in Muslin, but I definitely roamed the countryside looking for animals.  And I gotta say that to date South Africa has surpassed my expectations - and they were ridiculously high to begin with!

The team spent the weekend in Kruger Park, quite literally roaming the countryside.  We entered through Orpen Gate & spent the night at the Olifant's Camp - which met just about every romantic notion of Africa I've ever had.  Set on a high ridge, overlooking the Olifant's river with sundowners on the deck looking down at hippos in the river and baboons on the riverbank - all surrounded by plains containing the most magnificent grazing wildlife. 

 Sundowners with Cathy & Isabelle


View from the Deck at Olifants.....

Of the "Big Five" - Lion, Leopard, Rhino, Buffalo & Elephant - we were lucky enough to spot 4.  The only thing missing was the Lion, but we were indeed very fortunate to have come across an unusually friendly and not-yet-discovered species..........


Now gentle reader I will admit to being a somewhat emotional sort (oh big surprise I know) and am very much of the view that we are emotionally connected to places, even if we haven't yet been there.  I've felt that way about Africa since I was about 4 years old.  Ever since I was old enough to watch Animal Kingdom, I've soaked up absolutely everything I could find on Africa - documentaries, movies, books - you name it.  So I guess it's no surprise that I've actually openly wept on numerous occasions whilst on this assigment - much to the discomfort of South Africa Team 7 I'm sure!  Kruger Park ended up being a regular festival of happy tears for me.

It started with my first sighting of the elephant family, who were gracious enough to cross right in front of our vehicle - just about close enough to touch. 


And my love affair continued when we got to the first park and found one just outside the fence they put around all the accommodation parks (although I'm yet to work out if the fences are their to keep the animals away from the people or the people away from the animals - the place was full of German tourists & you KNOW what they're like.......)


And grazing just in front of the vehicle...... Have you worked out that I LOVE elephants?????

The bonus of the trip was being privledged enough to spot a leopard - a VERY solitary & difficult to spot beastie.  He bolted across in front of the vehicle I had to be very quick, but fortunately my eye/hand coordination has improved significantly since being confronted with the vast array of wildlife here.


The wet season has taken it's time showing up in Kruger and it is VERY VERY dry.  There is minimal water.  This of course makes animal spotting a little easier, as they are forced to all share common water sources.  The highlight was seeing elephants, giraffe & buffalo all sharing a water tank.



The rest of the day was spent spotting more giraffe & impala than you could point a stick (or camera) at, the odd herd of Buffalo, even more elephants, some waterbuck, warthogs, baboons and quite a few Zebra.  And of course, another personal favourite - the Hippo.  It was a veritable smorgasbord out there folks.  Here's just a small snapshot.  The library of animal photos is now huge and I think I may have developed RSI......

Hmmm.  Another photograph??  I suppose I'll have to pose for you then...... 

It's damn hot here - we need to move to a shadier tree 

I'm quick on my feet and pretty cranky....... Don't mess with me people! 

I'm ugly - but I have character people! 

What you lookin' at???? 

Elephant & Waterbuck
And of course, every so often you'd come across a reminder that staying alive in the Kruger is a tough business if you're not at the top of the food chain........



And gentle reader we even went on a night safari.  Now you KNOW how handy I am with a camera - here's the very artistic shot I took of Impala ;)  Note to Self:  Become familiar with the nighttime settings on the digital camera.....

 But here's a photo of Isabelle & I at the back of the safari truck, just to prove the camera was working.....

An overwhelming weekend was had gentle reader.  A lot of happy weeping and of truly magnificant moments in time. 

Now all that is left to do is to meet my gorgeous "Doctor Without Borders" - or as Isabelle would say "Medicin sans Frontiers" - adopt a couple of gorgeous little Malawi babies and go cuddle up in that mud hut...... 

Maybe next weekend.

Sunday, October 24, 2010

A weekend of Untouched Africa

After a rather hectic first week on assignment with the Limpopo Technology Innovation Hub the weekend loomed large - my very first weekend in Limpopo and the opportunity to 'go native' and explore parts of the province that are well and truly off the regular tourist beat.

Friday evening in Polokwane Reserve didn't disappoint.  Within the first half hour of setting off we were treated to a family of rhino, some zebra, sable, water buck & impala.  Not to mention a SPECTACULAR sunset that saw me almost dropping to my knees and weeping.  This was the Africa I'd been waiting since I was 4 years old to see.





On Saturday morning we set off hideously early (no weekend sleep in!) to visit the tribal homeland of the Moletjie in the Northern most reaches of Limpopo.  An untouched corner of the province that was a great insight into the real lives of Africans.  We were shown around by Charles - who'd trained as both teacher & priest before answering the call to become the clan's "Sangoma" (aka healer or witch doctor) who allowed us to sit in on a traditional 'throwing of the bones' session.  I was up for some insider information on a cure for diabetes but unfortunately it wasn't forthcoming.  However we did find out that our French colleague Isabelle will be getting married, so I'm looking forward to visiting Paris for the wedding!

 Charles the Sangoma
The bride to be at the front, looking somewhat nervous.......

We then headed to Zulani lodge, nestled between the Blouberg & Soutpanberg mountains.  A truly beautiful eco-lodge run by Elizabeth & Gordon Brace.  Now this couple has truly lived an adventurous life.  They've been shipwrecked in the Indian Ocean to be rescued by an airforce carrier by the British Army, have hunted  all over the world and are now running Zulani - a beautifully simple permanent campsite on their game reserve.  

Now gentle reader this is where I could wax lyrical and talk about experiencing what can only be termed a life changing moment.  But I'm not going to bore you with the details.  Suffice to say that I will now die a fulfulled and happy woman.  I experienced Giraffe at sunset and a steady stream of truly 'Out of Africa' moments - all I needed was the muslin and Robert Redford.  I'll let the photos speak for themselves.......






Bed for the night

Our Zulani hosts - Gordon & Elizabeth
After a traditional Brai (meat from one end of the table to another - you gotta be happy with that), it was a night under the stars soaking up the sounds of Africa at night.  One of these days I'll work out the settings on my camera so I can take better night shots.........

Today we headed  to the Makabeng region of Blouberg.  Now this place just rocked my world - quite literally.  A very arid area filled with red dust and the most spectacular sandstone rock formations, which are home to some early cave art dating back nearly 4000 years.    Elizabeth & Gordon joined us, along with Eunice our guide, who lives at the base of the mountain.  He lives so basically, with no running water or electricity yet this guy has 2 natural sciences degrees under his belt and is in his final year of an honours in archeology.  He's had to study off and on as funds would allow and is extremely passionate and dedicated about sharing the rradition San art of his ancestors with university teams (and the odd lucky group such as ourselves).  This region is well off the tourist track and remains relatively untouched.  It was fantastic sharing it with such a knowledgable guide, as well as Gordon & Elizabeth who are equally passionate about the importance of this region.  You've probably already worked out that I'm not much of a photographer, so I don't know that my photos will do it justice, but it's a part of the world well worth seeing.

Sandstone outcrop overlooking the Gorge we were heading to
The Gorge on the way to the cave.....

Charles in lecturer mode......
A nice spot for lunch.

How's the serenity?????

The day finished with a race for home against the local transportation.  We won, but let me tell you it was close!

The driver checking out the competition......

Horse Power vs Donkey Power

And on a final note gentle reader, those that know me well will realise that it is indeed testimony to my complete and utter enjoyment of the weekend that I did not even notice the 3 inch layer of red dust that covered me from head to foot, the sunburn on the back of my neck or the bush toilets - not to mention the small mountaub if red dust that came out of my socks when I got home!

It's back to work tomorrow, with a very busy week of data collation and initial recommendations, followed by a weekend in the Kruger.

A girl could get to like it here..........